When we got to the surf it was huge - at my favourite spot - a reef out the front of a rock platform - it was eight foot set, easy. I had to go out!
I thought I might sit in the channel and watch, but when I saw the waves pouring across the reef, I knew i had to get one.
I managed to get just two waves. Pretty good considering this was my first time back in the water after about three years away. On my second wave I fell and had to deal with with heavy white water. When I came up after one pounding, my board was snapped.
Less dramatic than it actually was. I had in fact snapped the board at the same surf spot about four years ago in very similar conditions. That time I thought I was going to drown. My board had been repaired but probably had a weakness that failed on this day. Coming in I got caught in a rip and had terrible cramps in both legs. Hermoine was in tears when I reached the shore. I thought she was concerned about me. No - the sea had taken her favourite underwear!
We went to the point just north and were treated to some tow in surfing action - first time I had seen this in the flesh. Amazing. Two skis and two riders getting some of the biggest tubes I have ever seen.
Check the guy in the shot below and: a. just how big this wave is compared to him, and b. how close he is to the rocks. Moments later he nose-dived and got hit by the lip. Ouch!
Some other tow-in surfing at a spot very close by can be seen in the YouTube clip below - incredible:
