The sea was angry that day (or: "I'm too old for this!")

One of the extreme benefits of the internet is the ability to track weather to predict surf. In the past, we tragic surfies would turn into the Channel Ten news and try to make sense of the evening weather report, or try to interpret the synoptic charts in the back on the newspaper.


But now with sites like Swellnet and Coastalwatch we Australian surfers can get pretty accurate (although not perfect) surf forecasts up to seven days in advance. (This helps when you are trying to juggle family and work responsibilities).


We it was with great interest that I watched the surf forecast play out for a recent weekend. A full five days out I knew with some certainty the waves would be overhead. My plan was set: be a good drone at work; a dutiful father and husband during the week; so ALL the clothes washing and sweep ALL floors and bang the rugs ... and Sunday would be mine.


On Saturday I tried to encourage a couple of friends to join me. By then the forecast was for winds up to 55 knots and 6 metre seas/ 2 meter swells.  One friend said to me via text: 'Are you deranged? Have you seen the weather forecast?' I simply replied: 'Yes - to both answers. We are taking an EPIRB so we should be okay.'


At least one Australian surf site on the web is now calling this day 'Super Sunday.' Epic waves up and down the coast. Below are a couple of photos I took.

The view that greeted us on arrival  

My kind of day: big waves and grey-on-grey sky and sea

Cranking - about eight feet

Love the colour on this one - big, mean and beautiful

A nice picture of me - looking happy to be at the beach on a wild day 

But it all ended badly for me, I'm afraid. After not finding anywhere really holding the swell, I find some great but huge waves at about lunch time. A reef. Breaking in front of some rocks. With a narrow pass between the rocks to get out. Big ... maybe 8 foot breaking top to bottom.


Well, I got out surprisingly easy. Watch some awesome, stylish surfing by the locals on some majestic waves. Paddled for one. Got about half way down the face. Fell awkwardly and hit my face on something. Held down ... and could not get up. Starting to think,'I've only got 8 seconds of air left.' Popped up and tried to breathe but got a mouthful of foam. Another big wave on the head. Washed through the rocks. In safely, but sore a bit shaken and bleeding from the mouth. 

Mmmm. I am too old for this type of surfing. Either that or I got to rebuild my strength and confidence. For the time being I am in the market for a longboard and sticking to two foot break breaks.

Coming home into the sunset - blissful.